A dog that is destructive while you are away from home might be suffering from separation anxiety. Dogs who do not have self-confidence, are not comfortable being left alone, or whose daily routines have changed can develop separation anxiety. The fear of isolation often results in unfavorable behaviors inside the home while the dog is alone.

A dog treatment program by an animal behaviorist may help curb these undesirable actions. Keeping arrivals and departures low-key, and leaving your dog with a personal item such as a T-shirt that smells like you may ease his or her anxiety. If behavioral modifications are not enough, veterinarians may prescribe medications to help curb the behaviors.

A Weighty Issue: Keeping Your Pet Slender and Healthy!

Prevention is key here: the best course of action is to not allow your pet to become overweight in the first place. Pay attention to your puppy or kitten’s growth to make sure he does not fill out “too much.” The average weight gain for a kitten is approximately one pound per month up to 8-10 pounds. For puppies, it depends on breed, but you should never see “rolls” of fat on a healthy puppy.

How can you tell if your pet is too fat? You should be able to feel the ribs easily. Even thin cats may have a little “pooch” in the belly between the hind legs, but this should not be excessive. From above, there should be a bit of a waist, rather than a bulge, between ribs and hips. The chart to the right illustrates how to assess your dog or cat.

While nutritionists often simplify overweight conditions as a matter of “too many calories in and too few calories burned,” it is obviously not that simple. Obesity is a symptom of a systemic imbalance, basically a disease state. Force-dieting (starving) a pet down to his “ideal” weight does not address the cause of the problem.

The first step is a check-up with your vet to assess your pet’s condition and rule out or treat any physical causes that may be contributing to excess weight, such as low thyroid in dogs.

Your vet can also evaluate what your pet’s “ideal” weight would be. For instance, the ideal weight for an average-sized cat might be between 8-10 lbs., but for a Maine coon, somewhere in the 12-15 pound range might be a more realistic goal.

Five Causes and Solutions for Pet Obesity

Cause #1: Unlimited Access to Food

The most common contributor to pet obesity is free-choice feeding. Dogs and cats are carnivores and hunters. It is not natural for them to graze 24 hours a day. Their digestive systems are built with a high-capacity stomach and short intestinal tract for eating and processing large meals.

It’s a common myth that pets, especially cats, will “self-regulate” how much they eat. While that may be true for a few pets, factors other than actual hunger often play a role in overeating.

• In a multi-pet household, when one animal goes to the food bowl, curiosity or the competitive instinct may cause another to investigate and, while she’s there, take a few nibbles. Enough extra nibbles over time can create a big problem!
• Boredom also plays a role. Pets that are home alone all day may eat just for something pleasurable to do.
• Former strays who have had to struggle to survive on the streets may have significant “food issues,” and will often become overweight if food is too available.
• Spaying and neutering causes an instantaneous decresae in metabolism; your pet’s caloric needs drop by 1/4 to 1/3 immediately after surgery. However, your pet is likely to eat the same amount as before—and will consequently gain weight.

Having food available 24/7 is far too tempting for too many animals. It also does not allow you to accurately monitor food intake, especially in multi-pet households. Knowing who’s eating what and how much is often an early and important clue to illness.

Solution #1: Feed in Timed Meals.

Feed in timed meals. For most dogs and cats, it’s best to feed them on a timed-meal schedule. That is, don’t leave the food out all the time, but rather put the food out for 30-45 minutes, two or three times a day. Many dogs will usually inhale their food in seconds, no matter how much is there. But some dogs, and many cats, prefer to eat a bit, come back in 10 minutes and eat a bit more. But… they will figure out this schedule quickly. Some pets will lose weight with this change alone; or at least you can keep them from continuing to gain. (Caution: some medical conditions require special feeding regimens; talk to your veterinarian before making any changes.)

Cause #2: Inappropriate Diet

A lot of my clients can’t understand why their pet is overweight, because they don’t feel that the amount they’re feeding is excessive, especially when they’re feeding a “light” or “diet” food. Unfortunately, given the opportunity, most animals will eat more of a diet food than of regular food, because it is less dense nutritionally, making it less satisfying. They may also be hungry for excessive amounts of food because they can’t digest it properly, there aren’t enough of certain nutrients, or some nutrients are not in a “bio-available” form and can’t be assimilated properly.

Another twist to the issue was recently revealed when a study found that “weight loss” pet foods varied widely in Calorie content as well as feeding directions. Even though AAFCO, the organization that sets nutritional standards for pet food, has specific rules and limits for foods making weight loss claims, the study found that a great many “diet” foods exceeded those limits. Overages ranged from 60 to 800 Calories over the published maximum. Dry foods were the worst offenders. The authors concluded, “In fact, many animals would likely gain weight if owners were to adhere to these feeding directions.”

Nutritionists for both humans and pets are finally starting to recognize that not all Calories are alike. Research on the glycemic index (a measure of how fast and how high blood sugar rises after eating) suggests that foods on the high end of the glycemic index, such as white potatoes, red potatoes, sweet peas, and corn, are more apt to put on the pounds than complex carbohydrates that are lower on the index.

Solution #2: Better Quality = Healthier and More Satisfying

High quality nutrition is the best way to help your furry pal stay healthy, as well as to lose those extra pounds. Typical commercial dry foods are high in starchy carbohydrates such as corn and white potatoes—which is a major factor in obesity in both dogs and cats. However, while dogs can derive good nutritional value from wholesome carbs, cats are obligate carnivores and don’t do as well with carb-rich foods. Unlike dogs and people, who use carbohydrates for energy, cats use protein and fat; excess carbs end up stored as body fat.

Keep in mind that there are really only three macronutrients: protein, fat, and carbohydrate; and their total must be 100%. If you decrease one, one or both of the others must increase.

For Cats: It’s best to feed a high-protein, low-carb, high-moisture food made from real meat as the basis of their diet; in most cases, this means wet food such as canned, raw, freeze-dried/rehydrated, or homemade. The “Atkins” (or Catkins!) diet is truly ideal for the cat. Most canned cat and kitten foods meet these standards, but try to choose those with the least carbohydrate. You can get a fair idea of carbohydrate content by simply subtracting all the listed percentages on the label from 100%. About 8% carbohydrate (or less) is best.

Always make sure your cat is eating. Some cats are so addicted to their dry food that they will go on a hunger strike without it. Work closely with your veterinarian when changing diets to minimize the risk to your cat.

For Dogs: For a dog, think “Zone” diet—moderate proteins and fats, complex carbohydrates (whole grains and vegetables) rather than starchy carbs like corn, potatoes, and processed grains. High-protein, low-carb diets have also been shown to help dogs lose weight and maintain lean muscle mass. Please see our article, "What You Need to Know About Your Pet’s Food," for additional information on appropriate diets.

What about fiber? Most weight-control pet foods contain extra fiber, which is thought to make it more “filling.” Fiber is an indigestible form of carbohydrate, mostly in the form of cellulose, which is found in plant cell walls. Fiber “bulks up” the food without adding Calories. For pets who feel deprived—or humans who feel guilty—when food portions decrease, a higher fiber, weight control food may be beneficial. But higher fiber also means more stool, so don’t be surprised to see this change in your pal’s elimination habits.

For all pets, but especially for those who may be having trouble digesting their food, adding digestive enzymes to each meal can help break down the food, and make the nutrients more available for absorption—resulting in less hunger, and giving you more bang for your pet food buck.

Remember that diet changes are best made gradually to avoid food rejection or tummy upset.

Cause #3: Inappropriate Portions

Pet food labels are extremely unreliable when it comes to feeding directions. The recommended portions on those labels are a very rough guideline, and are often excessive, especially if your pet is already overweight. Unfortunately, Calorie information is not required on pet food labels, making it difficult to assess and compare foods.

Solution #3: Feed by the Numbers

Overweight animals should be fed for their ideal weight—not to maintain the weight they’ve already packed on! If your dog weighs 50 pounds, but should weigh 40, feed only the amount required for a 40-pound dog. Your vet can help you assess what your pet’s ideal weight is.

Once you know how much your pet should weigh, you can calculate approximately how many calories you should feed per day to achieve that weight. (Calorie needs vary with age, breed, activity level, weather, health, and other factors.) This online calculator works for both dogs and cats: www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-feeding-tips/dog-food-calculator/.

For more tips and tools on weight loss in pets, check out the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention (http://www.petobesityprevention.com).

Throughout the weight management process, whatever the results, give your pet plenty of love and attention. Lots of affection will help her equate love and comfort with you – and not the food bowl.

All About Shedding

by Jean Hofve, DVM

For dogs and cats, shedding is a normal part of life. Their fur, like our hair, is always growing. Individual hairs do go through a dormant phase, but there’s so many of them you’ll never notice! As the hairs age and die, new hairs start to grow and push the old ones out. These either come off completely (usually on your opposite-colored carpet), or get tangled up and create mats.

There are four main factors that affect when and how much a dog or cat will shed:

1. Breed. While it may seem contrary, long-haired breeds (Afghans, Setters, Persians) tend to shed less than short-haired pets, because it takes so long to grow out that lush coat. Short-haired breeds constantly grow new hair, and push out old hairs that love to slip into furniture, food, you name it!

There are different types of coats, depending on breed. One is a single layer with little or no undercoat; these are the lowest-shedding types. The normal “double” coat has a soft undercoat with stiffer guard hairs that give the coat its color. Many double-coated breeds have very heavy undercoat as well as medium to long guard hairs; they are the breeds associated with outdoor work or very cold climates. Most cats are also double-coated. There are also hairless breeds of dogs as well as cats; but they are not maintenance-free, nor are they “non-allergenic.” It is protein in the skin cells that cause allergies in humans.

2. Grooming/coat care. Your pet’s fur is not something you can just ignore. Even short-haired dogs and cats will benefit from grooming. A common misconception is that brushing is all pets need, but brushes only glide over the top layer and don’t get down underneath. A comb or Furminator must be used to reach the undercoat and pull all the dead hair. 

If you want to bathe your pet, be sure to comb them out thoroughly before getting them wet; water will loosen dead hair and tighten mats, making the after-bath combing out job even tougher. Cats rarely need baths unless they’ve gotten into something. In general, dogs should not be bathed more than every week or two; though certain skin conditions may require more. Bathing will reduce shedding overall because it is so good at getting the dead hair out.

3. Diet. What your pet eats has a huge influence on skin and coat condition. In fact, it’s where problems often show up first. If there’s too little fat, or the wrong kind of fat, in the diet, it will show up as poor coat condition. Feeding a high quality natural food and supplementing with Omega-3 fatty acids from fish or cod liver oil will help keep your pet’s coat healthy. Dandruff, or dry, ratty, or greasy fur, are not normal; nor is patchy hair loss or baldness. If you notice excessive or localized shedding, be sure to have your veterinarian check your pet for parasites, hormonal imbalances, and other conditions that affect the skin and coat.   

4. Season & Weather. Dogs and cats are, in general, seasonal shedders. In the spring, they shed out their winter coats, and in the fall, they ditch their summer coats to prepare again for cold weather. Even indoor pets will follow this pattern because photoperiod (length of daylight) influences their hormones. Outdoor pets will, of course, be more influenced by weather extremes. Indoor pets tend to shed smaller amounts, but year-round, because indoor heating, cooling, and lighting makes seasons less of a factor.

Shedding is a normal part of life with cats and dogs, but regular grooming, a good diet, and a lint brush or two should keep it from becoming too stressful to you and your pet.